So I’m in Prague, former Bohemian capitol, expat artist haven, and brooding existential capitol of the civilized world. And in my short time here so far, it seems to be populated with reasonably content, western leaning Europeans, busy consuming cell phones and high fashion. It is the home of the current European president after all. This is good old Europe, not Western or Eastern. Just Europe. I suppose one day of walking the streets, and no real academic understanding of European culture of history to speak of, makes this assertion of mine a bit hasty. But I’m going to go with it. I’m not disappointed by what I’ve found here. I am completely wrapped up in the mystique of this city. I’ve never before felt so consumed by the architecture around me. I’m just aware that I’m experiencing a city that has evolved and transformed itself so drastically throughout history. And that now with the relative stability of global capitalism and a centralized Europe, Prague seems to be completely at peace with existing as a big comfy tourist attraction.
It is easy to be a tourist here. With my experiences in mainland China still fresh in my traveler’s eye, this city stands out in great contrast. There is an easy dance between the tourists milling about monuments like insects to a porch light and the entrepreneurs with their animal like aggression. We skirt their advances, avoiding eye contact and the unpleasant hustle of conversation. I try to take on the look of someone who speak a language unknown, sheepishly shrugging and walking on. This is acceptable to them and to me. We quickly understand each other. I’m not buying the boat ride, or a three course traditional Czech meal, or the ticket to Europe’s largest dance club. And they are not interested in pursuing such a confused and unwelcoming foreigner. In China, this plan was worthless. Without enough tourism, our dance doesn’t work. We step on each others feet and flail around until one of us leaves frustrated, rejected and confused. And thus while I regret that I’m not seeing the Prague of the early 90s, full of raw angst and dark ambition, I’m glad to find a city so seemingly content in its role to passively exhibit what is arguably the worlds greatest collection of historical Western architecture. I’m posting pics on my flickr site. And I will write when I can.
